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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.